SELUM 98Y8

STYLE｜WWII STYLE(1940s)

A classic five-pocket straight-leg jean informed by the restrained construction and functional design of 1940s wartime denim.

The waist and seat are cut with a measured amount of room, allowing natural movement while maintaining a clean and stable straight silhouette.

The overall proportions are simple and restrained, following the function-first design principles associated with wartime jeans.

FABRIC｜14OZ RAW SELVEDGE DENIM

Made from 14oz raw indigo selvedge denim.

The jeans are cut and sewn from the cloth in its fully unsanforized, unwashed loomstate. From cutting through final sewing, no ironing is used, allowing the denim to retain its natural loomstate character throughout construction.

The denim has a relatively high lengthwise shrinkage of approximately 12%–14% along the warp direction. This shrinkage is calculated into the pattern from the beginning and forms an integral part of the intended finished dimensions and silhouette.

After the initial soak, the denim becomes firm and structured, with a noticeably hairy surface and pronounced raw texture. With continued wear, the fibers gradually relax and the fabric softens, while natural creases and fading develop according to the wearer’s movement and habits.

This denim fades at a relatively gradual pace, allowing its character to develop naturally over extended wear.

For the initial soak, we recommend turning the jeans inside out before soaking or washing. This helps reduce unnecessary surface abrasion and unwanted indigo transfer.

THREAD｜100% COTTON THREAD

The entire garment is sewn with custom-spec 100% cotton thread.

Because the unsanforized denim has a relatively high shrinkage rate, the garment contracts noticeably during the initial soak. Cotton thread is able to shrink along with the denim, allowing the seams and fabric to respond more consistently as the garment settles into its final dimensions.

Different thread weights are used according to the structural and load-bearing requirements of each area. Stitch construction, stitch length and sewing methods are also adjusted accordingly.

From thread selection to stitch density, the construction follows the logic of traditional vintage denim, allowing the stitching to remain visually and structurally integrated with the garment and to age naturally through long-term wear.

HARDWARE & TRIMS

Buttons

Japanese-made YKK antique black-brass jeans buttons, using a one-piece construction and an aged finish selected to complement the raw denim.

Rivets

YKK Universal copper ring rivets are used at key stress points. The copper surface will gradually oxidize through wear, developing a deeper tone and natural patina over time.

Leather Patch

The leather patch is made from premium imported Tochigi full-grain vegetable-tanned leather.

The leather has a dense fiber structure and naturally rich oil content. It begins with a relatively natural tone and gradually darkens through the initial soak, regular wear and oxidation. Over time, the surface develops a deeper color, richer luster and more pronounced signs of use.

Red Tab

A cotton red tab is used, keeping the trim consistent with the natural-fiber character of the garment.

TRADITIONAL DENIM CONSTRUCTION

The jeans are constructed using traditional methods associated with classic five-pocket denim.

Each sewing operation is designed around its specific function, balancing durability, freedom of movement and three-dimensional form.

BELT LOOPS

The center of each belt loop is deliberately raised, with the two rows of stitching recessed along either side. This structure helps reduce direct abrasion on the stitching while giving the belt loops a fuller, more dimensional appearance.

A practical construction detail that also contributes to the visual character of the garment.

BACK POCKETS

The back-pocket openings are sewn with two rows of stitching, creating a subtle raised section between them.

This raised structure helps keep the stitching away from direct surface contact, reducing abrasion and lowering the risk of thread wear or breakage over extended use.

FRONT POCKETS

The front pockets use a concealed dart construction to create additional three-dimensional volume around the hand opening. This gives the pocket opening a fuller shape while making it easier and more natural to access during everyday wear.